Friday, 20 March 2026

Axle - AGAIN!

 Yes again I'm afraid. It had been leak free, but then I took it to Peterborough & there was "evidence" when I got back. So I had the axle in bits again & put in another of the 2mm cross section O-Rings & this time ran a file round the edge of the axle to make sure there were no burrs in it, covered it in "Hylomar Blue" & pressed it in very slowly.

It cut a sliver off the O-Ring.

"Perhaps the Hylomar will hold it" I thought - no, it didn't. When I put it on I read the instructions "allow the solvent to evaporate off before assembling" OK, any clues for how long? Not long enough as it turned out. it appeared to have dripped a single drip, but it had dripped.

I ordered more O-Rings, this time 1 1/2mm cross section, then looked up the Hylomar wait time on the internet - 10 - 20 mins. I dry assembled the 1/2 shaft, I put an O-Ring in the groove on the bearing & dry assembled it, I put an O-Ring at the far end of the bearing rebate in the axle as well & dry assembled it making sure that didn't put load on the bearing retainer plate.

I put a bead of Hylomar round the bearing & the O-Rings & pushed the 1/2 shaft in - then pulled it out, ensuring the coating was thin & even. After 10 mins I pushed it back in & bolted it all up.

(sigh)

It's been out a couple of times since & no leakage yet. The jury is still out & my fingers are still crossed.

In other news I've been ferreting away at cameras again. I have a camera mount right in the nose cone & I really like the low view it gives, but up to now using it has meant stopping, moving one of the cameras into the nose & setting it going on battery, driving for a bit & then swapping it all back. As my lovely girlfriend gave me new cameras for Christmas, it occurred to me that one of the old ones could go in the nose, but experiments with battery life suggested I'd not get much of "the good stuff" if I set it going before I got in the car. I considered powering it from a USB but a hole in the case would mean it would fill up with water in the inevitable showers.

So what to do? I had a matt black GoPro case that I'd not used because it had a large rectangular hole in the side for putting a USB cable in through, so I drew a box to fit snugly in there, then a round open cylinder with "bead" on & printed it in rigid plastic. Next, a conical "boot" with a matching recess for the bead printed in rubbery stuff. Having glued the rigid part to the camera shell, I can plug in the USB & pop the boot in place & it's waterproof & operable from the remote on the dash.


It actually looks quite techie. What would I do without my 3D printer & On-Shape?

The boot in 1mm thick 90 shore polyurethane is just right & stretchy enough to force the pug through a 4mm hole so it seals against the cable outer, it's a simple thing, but my videos should be a bit more interesting & I won't have to stop & re-arrange the car to achieve it.

 


Monday, 9 March 2026

MoT Time

 ...Well Almost.


While looking around the car as the MoT is coming, I noticed the rear No. Plate light was dead. 

It was just a little thing I knocked up myself out of three white LEDs & a 3D printed housing. This time I thought I'd spend some actual money, so arranged for the excellent folk at Car Builder solutions to send one of their tiny lights the same as I used on the Fury. Again I've put it in a printed housing. When I got the car it had a standard "Lucas" lamp, so I got rid of that & fitted mine up under the boot lip so it's invisible, the new one fits the same way.


It lights the No. plate "sufficiently" & there's no clutter on the back of the car.


Wednesday, 4 March 2026

Vented

The Stylus came to me with three "shark gill" type vents on each front wing, they are rakishly angled to the front, but to give the vents some depth (make it look as if the holes were flanged inward), the original builder had glued MDF to the inside of each wing, cut out the holes & sprayed it all blue. This probably looked great at the time, but 25 years later the MDF has cracked & doesn't look good at all.

So what to do. When I bought the car I just got rid of the mesh that was falling off the inside & replaced it with the small weave stuff you can see in the pic & not really having a clue beyond that, I left it. Shark gills? I had bigger fish to fry.

It was a similar story with the tail lights, but then I thought of re-setting them inside the body with a 3D printed silver lip, I've been astonished at how well this has worked, so it started me thinking & what I thought was something round the vents to match the tail light bezels.


So I drew something using "OnShape", a free cloud-based CAD system.


Then, because I wasn't sure & because I can, I tried out three on a representative background.

I liked it, so I printed a prototype, tested it, made a few changes & printed three for the near side of the car, with three very thin polyurethane gaskets to sit between the trim & the paintwork, I did this with the tail lights & while they hardly show, they make the thing look far more "finished".


With the prints done, one was a good fit, one fitted nicely at the bottom, but swung out at the top, one was loose, so I needed a way of holding all three in place while the glue cured. As is so often the case, two bits of wood &  ratchet strap worked rather well.

So the passenger side is all blinged up, the trims for the driver's side are on the printer even as I type.



Thursday, 26 February 2026

Double Glazed

I'm still ILL, but getting a little better each day.

But I have made it out to the garage & the Stylus now has two new side screens, which are see-through & fit quite nicely, Testing is still to be done after the end of the month when it gets taxed, but they should be fine. I'd like to make new deflectors as well, but that may have to wait a little while as I have things to do on my Girlfriend's car before the touring season starts.
I also managed to re-align the passenger door a little further forward & further in, so it lines up with the body contours better, then I rolled it outside & gave it a wash!

When it's taxed I need to:-
1. Drive it.
2. Check the axle isn't leaking.
3. Test my new cameras.
4. Drive it.
5. Touch up some of the stone chips.
6. Polish it.
7. Drive it.

Tuesday, 24 February 2026

ILLness!

Yes my Girlfriend & I have been ILL.

Not merely "ill", but most definitely ILL. We came back from the west country & started feeling rough soon afterwards, started off like a cold, but it has been evil! My girlfriend has suspicions it may have been bronchitis as she had that a long time ago. I wouldn't be surprised. The previous time we stayed in a Premier Inn we came away with covid.

But I am now on the mend, albeit very slowly. So it probably wasn't wise to spend all day in the garage working then, but that's what I did & have succeeded in adjusting the nearside door quite well & the off side one a bit, as well as more-or-less making a new near side side screen. Being ILL (did I mention that?) I'm perhaps not quite up to par & cut the hole for the cockpit vent too big, yes I did measure it twice, still loused it up. However a grommet printed in clear polyurethane adapts the hole size as well as stopping the vent rattling & making the opening action feel far more positive, so no harm done.

This it pretty much a straight re-make, the old ones are a strange sort of clear plastic, they were originally bolted to the doors - which is standard for the kit, but I took them off so I can swap them for small deflectors, but they are heavy, getting a bit clouded & have never fitted the soft top particularly well. Since the photo I've trimmed the top & rear faces & just need to drill a few holes for the "furniture" - the latch & the ball mount for the control arm that opens the window with the door.

Then I'll make it see through. I've always considered that important in a window.

Wednesday, 18 February 2026

A Trip to Bristol

 My girlfriend & I are collecting Concordes, not to keep you understand, that would be - inconvenient. It started when we went to Brooklands on our first date & we have now been aboard four.

To accomplish this we went to "Aerospace Bristol", it looked a bit "corporate" to me from the website, but it was actually very good, telling the story of the Bristol aircraft company from before it made aeroplanes (under a different name obviously) until we as a nation gave up on making stuff & just bought it from other countries.

The first "room" covers up to the end of the first world war & has - as you can see a Bristol Fighter & hanging above it, the wooden structure of a Bristol Fighter for comparison, there are lots of displays on making wooden propellers & the other paraphernalia of aircraft production, then as you walk through to the second room there is a model showing the flying controls of an aircraft which is animated as you move them. What I found interesting was that the plane looks like a '30s model of a plane called "Britain First". It was designed for the then owner of the Daily Mail who could see that other countries were developing monoplanes & the UK didn't seem to be, so he asked Bristol to design him a six seater airliner - it was faster than the RAF's fastest fighter & was developed into the Blenheim.

In the second section it's all about the '30s to the '60s, so we have this. In the thirties an awful lot of the worlds planes flew with a Bristol Jupiter, the tubes running from the centre casing to the end of each cylinder house two push rods, each of which operates two valves - four valves per cylinder - the mechanism is exquisite.

We think we're clever these days? Try designing that with only a pencil & slide rule. You'll have to compensate for heat expansion in different materials, different cooling, design in a mechanism for adjustment, while keeping the engine diameter as small as possible.

Moving on from the Jupiter, we come to this, it's a Bristol Hercules (all the Bristol engines were named after Greek or Roman myths), the thing about air cooled radial engines is that their diameter tends to control the shape of the aircraft, so how to get more power when you can't just make the engine bigger? Well for a start there's two rows of cylinders, but also, no push rod tube up the front, because this is a sleeve valve engine.

Sleeve valve engines put the piston inside a sleeve inside the cylinder, then move that sleeve such that holes in the sleeve uncover & close holes in the cylinder, letting the exhaust out & a new charge in, a little like a two-stroke. To do this the sleeve moves both up & down & rotates around the piston. As you can imagine, this is quite complicated when the cylinders are arranged in a circle & there's two rows.

In this photo of a sectioned engine the timing wheels that move the sleeves are in a ring just ahead of the removed cylinder - the sleeves are painted yellow.

Why do all this? As I said, a radial engine tends to control the shape of the aircraft. Taking the valves off the top of each cylinder means the cylinder itself can be bigger with no increase in the overall engine diameter.
The 1920s-30s designed Jupiter would make around 500 bhp, the 1930-40ss Hercules around 1,700. There's also a supercharger built in the middle of that & as I said, designed with pencil & slide rule. No wonder they knighted Roy Fedden the designer.

In the far corner is a cut away front fuselage of a Bristol Beaufighter. I can't imaging this is recent, surely no-one's cutting chunks out of a Beaufighter these days.
We then went for a short tour of the restoration hanger where they are rebuilding a Bristol Bolingbroke (Canadian built Blenheim) & a Bristol Freighter. These were used to fly cars  two at a time with their passengers from the south coast to France.

Surely you'd have to suffer very badly from seasickness to even consider that?

Back in the main area, was this Bristol 173, there was only ever one of it, intended to be a "heliliner" for moving people between cities. None were sold, but it led to the Belvedere which was operated by the RAF.


 




There is also an example of the finest aircraft known to man.

I used to work in there installing all that stuff.

But onto the main event, The Concorde (G-BOAF) sits in it's own hangar with commendably little stuff around it. The website had promised a video playing on the aircraft side, which sounded disappointing, but in fact was technical stuff about the aircraft, so when talking about the aero-heating around the nose, the nose was coloured yellow, fading to red, fading to blue to demonstrate & every few minutes it stopped so I could take photos.

Analogue. I like analogue, this is the flight engineer's station, looking forward to the pilot's positions.

So, Aerospace Bristol - it's a good thing, there's lots of toys to learn how stuff works & it's well laid out.

Saturday, 7 February 2026

Exhaust Fairing

Today I sallied forth & made the front panel for the exhaust fairing. Like the rear section it's made from the old boot floor from my girlfriend's Tiger which being 0.5mm aluminium had given up the ghost after carrying spares, petrol, jump leads & all sorts of other essentials on innumerable road trips.

So, starting with a paper pattern, I rough cut the sheet & rolled it to more or less match the sill (over my knee if you must know).

There was then a lot of to-ing & fro-ing, matching the shape & dressing a flare into the rear edge to match(ish) the exhaust can & stiffen the panel a little, also to make sure it covered up the holes in the body punched by a badly located exhaust clamp. Once I was happy, I drilled a number of 3/32" holes & jig-pinned it in place.

I polished it up a bit, though not too much, the rest of the car has many many stone chips, so the "patina" of the second-hand sheet is a good thing, after that it was just a case of opening the holes up to 1/8" & riveting it on - it doesn't need to be removeable like the rear one as the silencer comes out backwards. This is as far away as I can get in the garage, when I get a dry day I'll move it outside.