Saturday, 1 December 2018

Winter Changes

Not a great deal has happened since the last post, none of it photo-worthy, but progress has been made.

I took down the near side pod, took the over-wheel section of the exhaust off & re-shaped it further forward & upward, so it now clears the wheel by a much larger margin & the car should be tyre-smoke-free on right hand bends with a passenger (fingers crossed). This of course involved WELDING - a thing I'm not very good at, but after blowing a lot of holes in the pipe, I bought an auto-darkening welding helmet & was then able to heal-over all the holes. Not pretty, but job done. As the pipe is now further forward & further out, I had to re-cut the trailing edge of the pod to fit round it & noticed the upper face was all cracked where it bolts on, so made up an aluminium plate & fitter the anchor nut to that & pop-riveted it on so the area's all nice & reinforced.

I've also replaced the 15 year old cam-belt. It's not as bad as it seems as it was fitted to the engine by Fords in 2004, then sat waiting for me to buy it until 2012 so it's not seen a lot of use, just a lot of years.

It all went OK until I tried to start the engine & it just turned over & over & I realised I must've got the cam timing out by one tooth (DOH!). This morning I took out & cleaned all the plugs, left 3 of them loose in the car so I could turn it over, locked the cams & CAREFULLY rocked the crank back & forth until I was happy No.1 piston was at Top Dead Centre (TDC), then CAREFULLY threaded the belt round the pulleys again. This time it fired straight away, so I'm happy all's well.

Like I said, nothing very interesting or exciting, but it needed doing.

Saturday, 3 November 2018

Mind The Gap

The filler cap is finished, it wasn't without its tribulations. When I left it, it was working but the boot lid was sitting too high, so first job this morning, I cut the cake tin / splash bowl down so there was an even gap.

Obviously where there's a touch, I cut that back - then it touched somewhere else, so that got trimmed. Eventually there was an even 2mm gap all round with the boot lid in its' proper place. Then I fitted the filler cap back on & found the hinge pin hadn't been riveted over & was creeping out.
 It got replaced with a titanium bolt.

This it was the same process again, mark where the boot lid touched the filler, cut it back, re-try. Over a couple of hours I got the gap pretty even & the cap works nicely.


It's one of those details that needs a lot of thinking, then a lot of work & you'll know if you've got it right because no-one will notice it because it looks natural on the car.


I cleaned up the edges & applied a coat of the yellow nail varnish I keep for this sort of thing & stuck some rubber edging round the splash bowl..



So the cap fits, it works & all that's left to do is raise the boot rack to clear the cap when it's open.
 

Friday, 2 November 2018

The Cap Fits!

This afternoon I've been fitting the new fuel cap to the Fury. The old one came off easy enough & the new one seemed happy enough, so I cut the cake tin / splash bowl to suit & tentatively fitted the boot lid, the existing hole was way too small & it looked as if I'd need to cut a slot a long way forward to allow the cap to open, so I began tentatively, removing small amounts of GRP with a tungsten carbide file. Then (inevitably) I got bored & went at it with a coarse burr (like a cylindrical-file-on-a-stick) mounted in a drill gun......set on "fast".





This may sound like the prelude to a tale of woe, but I was not failed by my aircraft fitting skills & I must say I'm rather pleased with the result.











There's more work to do yet. I need to even up the gaps & the boot lid isn't sitting down properly yet, but height-wise it's pretty much exactly where I wanted it













And - astonishingly - it opens! (that's a locking cap inside the lid).
Again, there's a little more cutting & filing to do to make it work "nicely", but it is going to be extremely cool


The new splash bowl is only just big enough & is fouling the boot lid stiffeners a little, but again that's just fettling, once I've got the boot lid to sit down properly.

Once it's all done & working I need to shorted the boot rack stays a bit as the lid just fouls as it opens, so the rack needs to be lifted a little.

Monday, 29 October 2018

Flipin' Cap

Have I told you about the flip cap? Have I? Have I?

When I built the car I wanted a lot of aeroplane influence, so it got an aero flush filler cap. Things move on & the car now has much more of a '50s vibe & what with the boot lid being cut & submerging the filler, it was now looking a little - odd.

So the new plan was a flip cap. I'd had one on the first car I built, so it sort of harks back to that.

Mounting plate rough cut
I bought the cap a month or so ago, but at 3/4 kg, it was obviously FAR too heavy, so the lock ring was ditched entirely & the neck was turned down to the max (or indeed min) & this resulted in a mass reduction of 1/4kg or 33%. So it's still a heavy item then.

I then needed a new way to mount it as I'd deleted the lock ring, so drew up a plate which would bolt to the underside, & would be bolted down through the new cake tin (more to come on that one) to the existing alloy fame structure in the boot, but the top of the cap should be about flush(ish) with the surface.
Mounting plate finish cut

That was the plan anyway.




So the mounting plate got bandsawed out of a 5mm plate I had in the garage, hand filed to smooth the periphery, drilled & countersunk for the cap mounting bolts & then drilled again for lightness, then polished. Not shiny polished, scotchbright polished to match the cap.


Polished - ish


Bolting it down needed bolts, so I popped round to my local nut & bolt emporium Margnor in Jacobswell & purchased 5 off M5 x 20 csk bolts for the princely sum of 30p (two of which are spares) & attached the plate to the underside of the cap.

Then realised I'd polished the wrong side.

Twenty minutes later & with both sides now polished, I bolted the mounting plate onto the cap & I saw that it was good.




The next job will be to cut the new cake tin to fit the filler cap, then remove the aero cap & drill the support structure to accept the new cap / mounting plate / cake tin assembly & enlarge the hole in the boot lid a little to allow the flip cap to - flip.

After that I may need to modify the boot rack a little if there's a clash, but I'll deal with that as & when .....



 

Friday, 26 October 2018

Roger

I seem to have caused some confusion with my last post. The radio is for talking car to car, useful if someone is lost or has a car problem.

Today I finished off (ish) the system. Up until now the radio was powered by a 12v socket on the roll bar, next to that was a twin USB socket driving two cameras. It worked fine, but the addition of the iPod transmitter & on-going problems with the GoPro wifi widgets meant I needed had an excuse for more sockets. Even more sockets)

All this stuff can be run off batteries, but that means charging seven items to have it all working & on the road trip, having seven things plugged in overnight just doesn't work.

So, to work. I removed the 12v & USB sockets from the roll bar & replaced them with the shiny new matching ones, These will drive two GoPros & two wifi widgets. I cut a piece of aluminium to fit between the seat & the trans tunnel, attached by the existing tunnel top bolts, into this fit the old 12v & USB sockets, the 12v powers the radio, one of the USBs powers the iPod / mobile phone lead, the other powers the FM transmitter so I can hear the iPod over the radio.

How many power sockets has the Fury got now? Well there's three 12v, two on the dash, one on the tunnel & there's (ahem) nine USB ports. three on the dash, four on the roll bar & two on the tunnel.

At the moment the tunnel sockets draw power from the back of the roll bar sockets (the dangly red wire in the picture), but when the car is in dry dock for winter mods I'll take a line from the wiring loom inside the tunnel, so that red wire won't be on show.
 

Tuesday, 23 October 2018

Head Set

An overhead conversation on the Cotswolds run got me thinking, the result is seldom simple once I start thinking. On club runs in the Fury I've used the headset that came with the two way radio & I bought a "better" one with a "head clamp" a boom mic & separate transmit switch - which worked OK, but the sound quality was pants & I struggled to understand what was being said.

Back to that conversation & one of the mechanical wizards was setting up the radio for an IT professional (yes, I thought that was odd too) & he happened to mention that the radio could be set on FM & would switch to transmit / receive if there was something happening. This meant if you had an iPod transmitter (Ebay £3 gadget to play the iPod over the car radio if your car's as old as my tintop is - it has a cassette player - remember them?) then the radio would send iPod to the headset & interrupt when there was chatter going on.


IMGP9683.JPG
Wiring for M/C helmet headset
( I MUST apologise for the table cloth - my wife's choice, I HATE it):-
So I set this up with bits & pieces I already had for the run last weekend & it worked - even though the sound quality was pants.

I've now taken delivery of a pair of folding Peltor ear defenders (yellow naturally), a motorcycle head-set kit for a crash hat & shortly there will be more goodies through the letter box.



I stuck it into the ear defenders & tyrapped the wiring to them. the kit has connectors for the helmet part & the talk-switch, so I ran that bit of the wiring round the car
Defenders Folded

Defenders Deployed
The sound quality is much much better as is the available volume. there was a minor hitch, the plug that goes into the radio was a little too wide :roll: but my good friend "Stanley Knife" helped out there.

The bits in the post are a new iPod transmitter which plugs into the headphone jack rather than the iPod dock like the one I have, so I can have the iPod plugged in & charging while it's transmitting & another FOUR usb sockets to power all the stuff that now needs amps (I may need a larger alternator).

I'm now wondering if I can break into the TomTom & fit a headphone jack to that & so have radio, music & TomTom all straight into the defenders.

Friday, 12 October 2018

Winter Drawers On


So far October’s been quite a busy month for the Fury, first of all there was the annual Car Limits Day at North Weald. A couple of days later I took it to the Cotswolds with the Rogue Runners – well, most of them, Brian wasn't feeling sufficiently chipper.Then I went to Hickstead to do a course on driving MEWPs (Mobile Elevated Working Platforms apparently), but through all this motoring a few things have been apparent, firstly the rear wheels move further up into the arches with the new shorter shocks , this allows the tyre to rub on the exhaust at full bump with two people in the car, the next is the bizarre "Mexican moustache" it keeps growing around the rear number plate & the other is an occasional smell of petrol.
 
Mexican moustache
When I got home from work today, I looked at raising the exhaust, but that’s a winter upgrade job & the car's not off the road yet, so I turned my attention to the fuel system. I turned it on & after a few minutes there was no smell & no drippage. So the pipes & hoses weren't leaking.
 
When I put the fuel tank access door in the boot floor I ran a vent hose to a position behind the rear fog lights, I wondered if the smell of fuel was coming from there, certainly there was a waft on opening the boot as the negative pressure pulled fumes through this vent pipe.
 
I replaced the hose I’d used with a small bore fuel hose, fitted a non-return valve allowing air into the tank but not out & cunningly (I thought) moved the hose exit (actually the intake) such that it sits in the hidden area beside the off side rear fog light inside the recess for the number plate & is therefore OUTSIDE the car. Hopefully this will fix the smell.
 
The moustache is more confusing, whatever it is appears to come from the top of the rear fogs & run down the rear panel. It appears to be granular, so I'm wondering if it's tyre smoke from the exhaust rub, but why just stick around the number plate? There's obviously something running down the outside of the car, could the petrol fumes get from the inside of the boot into the number plate recess in sufficient quantity to stick tiny bits of rubber to the car? I will find out.